What do you get when you send Three Blue Ducks chef, Andy Allen, to Peru? A banging new recipe for ceviche that you can make at home…
It was obvious in my recent trip to Peru, that ceviche was their national dish. Not only is it on EVERY menu, but it’s bloody delicious.
The thing that sets the Peruvian’s ceviche apart from the rest of the contenders, is what they call “tigres de leche” or tiger’s milk. It’s a sauce which the fish marinates in, made up of chillies, aromats, lime juice, fish stock and fish trimmings… yes, that’s right, fish trimmings! In Peru, they have a variety of different colours of tiger’s milk:
Yellow – using fresh turmeric
Red – using red chillies
Green – using green chillies and coriander
White – using lime juice and fish stock
Another flavour, which I deemed a little odd until I tried, was the use of cooked sweet potato in the salad mix of the ceviche. Peru is the king of potatoes, with the locals saying there’s over 4000 varieties – so, naturally, they put spuds in a lot! Using the sweet potato in the ceviche actually makes a lot of sense, as the sweetness mellows out the punchy acidity to the tiger’s milk.
TIGER’S MILK CEVICHE
Right, now for my recipe. I’ve opted for red ceviche as I love a little kick. I also like to go and buy a whole fish, as for this recipe you’ll use every bit – the sliced flesh for the final product, any trimmings for the tiger’s milk and the bones to make a stock.
For the tigers milk, you’ll need…
– 400ml freshly squeezed lime juice
– 200ml fish stock – please make your own
– 200g fish trimmings
– 6 long chillies – seeds removes
– 1 celery stick
– 35g ginger
– 3 garlic cloves
– stems and roots from 1 coriander bunch
– 1/2 small red onion
Place all of the ingredients into a blender and blitz for about a minute until the mix is smooth. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve and season the liquid with a touch of salt.
Once you have your tiger’s milk, you want to marinate the sliced fish in a squeeze of lemon juice for 5 minutes. This will partially cook the fish and turn it a little opaque. Then, you want to pour over the tiger’s milk and let it marinate for a further 5 minutes. Then it’s ready to be arranged on your plate. Make sure you pour over a good amount of the tiger’s milk, as I bet you’ll be slurping whatever is left over from the bottom of the bowl.
The garnish salad is up to you. I’d suggest some small cubes of roasted and fried sweet potato, charred corn, coriander leaves, sliced red onion and a touch of julienned chilli, all dressed in a touch of lime juice.